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形式追随时尚？Viktoria Lytra 以剪贴画结合建筑与时尚

Pleats till now were considered to be garments’ element. However, pleating in architecture creates unconventional forms such as the Reggio Emilia train station in Italy designed by the famous architect Santiago Calatrava. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

作者 Niall Patrick Walsh | 译者 Winnie Wu
于2018年十月, 04

希腊建筑师 Viktoria Lytra 创作了一系列拼贴画为探索建筑与服装间的互动关系。“形式追随时尚”行动（FormFollowsFashion）探讨建筑与服装的共同目标：为人体提供庇护，将美学作为建筑与服装设计的新途径。

Lytra 的拼贴系列将多种艺术运动及风格如极简主义、解构主义和后现代主义的特点，用阵列、折叠、曲线、印花和扭曲等几何特征表现出来。

The conical shape used for different reasons, both by Frank Lloyd Wright at the Guggenheim Museum in New York and by Hussein Chalayan in the Table Dress AW2000, created two iconic examples of architecture and fashion. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

“建筑与服装都属于创意艺术的领域，两者之间存在一种相互关系。一方面，建筑突出的个性会被时尚界提取作为形式实验的元素；另一方面，建筑是社会形态学的总体表现，它也会从时尚界的开放式设计中汲取灵感。”

——形式追随时尚

Sculptural forms emerge from the use of curves in architecture and fashion. Interior staircase in Boston residence designed by the architectural office Steven Harris Architects and Rossie Assoulin Resort 2015 collection. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

反思“形式追随时尚”行动背后的策划过程，Lytra 告诉 ArchDaily 这是一场关于意象的复杂追求，当时尚在以难以置信的速度进化的同时，建筑的进化显得如此缓慢。

“当然我们不能肯定这两者会处在某一个共同的发展阶段，我们可以发现例如中国服装设计师郭培的AW2018系列与中世纪哥特教堂间的不谋而合。总的来说，需要付诸实践的是不断记录建筑与服装的特征，并在包容的评价体系下进行融合。”

——形式追随时尚

The fabric usage gives a huge morphological potential in architecture as in the case of the twisted facade of the King Fahad National Library in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, by Geber Architekten. Respectively, Origami twisted designs were used in a coat designed by Alexandra Verschueren. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Lytra 的完整作品可在 FormFollowsFashion 官网上浏览

Inflatable structures in fashion and architecture point to art objects. Golden Balloon Installation at Tokyo Mot 2014 exhibition by AMID.CERO9 and Action Dolls Haute Couture AW17 collection by Viktor and Rolf. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Biorhythmic buildings or 'blobs', as they called, and clothes emerge from the potential given by new technologies in both design and construction. The Vanke Pavilion at Milan Exhibition designed by the famous architect Daniel Libeskind and garment from the Comme des Garcons AW18 catwalk. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Fashion and architecture are often inspired by nature and its curved forms, that result in organic shapes. Distinct chapel among olive groves in South Africa designed by Steyn Studio and Ashi Studio Haute Couture AW17-18 collection. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Blurring lines leads to extraordinary shapes that form buildings and garments such as the Cleveland Clinic Lou Ruvo Center for Brain Health Nevada, USA, by Frank Gehry and Givenchy FW18 runway. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Structural mesh used in architecture such as pavillion Metropol Parasol, in Seville Spain, designed by Juergen Mayer reminds of Junya’s Watanabe AW2015 catwalk. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Color and undulated planes create a distinctive building in Reversible Destiny Park in Japan designed by architects Shusaka Arakawa and Madeline Gins. A color palette inspired by Lego as well as asymmetrical fabric surfaces dominate the Marni SS16 collection. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

Solid and void is a classic but versatile architectural theme. It creates different patterns in building facades, which in the case of Al Bahr twin towers in Abu Dhabi from Aedas Architects is relative to lighting management. Whenever this strategy is used in fashion, it receives a different role when it has not any more to do with function but serves a concept, like Iris Van Herpen Ready-to-Wear SS16 collection. Image Courtesy of Viktoria Al. Lytra

新闻来自：FormFollowsFashion
翻译：秦瑜

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Niall Patrick Walsh

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引用: Walsh, Niall. "形式追随时尚？Viktoria Lytra 以剪贴画结合建筑与时尚" [Does Form Follow Fashion? Viktoria Lytra's Montages Keep Iconic Architecture In Vogue] 04 10月 2018. ArchDaily. (Trans. Winnie Wu) Accesed . <https://www.archdaily.cn/cn/903148/xing-shi-zhui-sui-shi-shang-viktoria-lytra-yi-jian-tie-hua-jie-he-jian-zhu-yu-shi-shang>